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The 24-Hour Itch

In the Midnight Hour, You Want More, More, More

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In a town where everybody drinks all the time, yet late-night restaurants are scarce, a good 24-hour joint is a precious commodity. Here are a few all-night hotspots that aren't Denny's or Shari's. Okay, one's Shari's, but come on, you have to admit that cinnamon French toast is pretty effin' good at four in the morning...

Javier's

121 N Lombard. 286-3186

Javier's menu is huge and rambling, offering a wide variety of taqueria favorites while not really "nailing" anything in particular. Without dwelling on things like disturbingly yellow, un-melted cheese (you're in no position to dwell once the bar's closed, drunky), Javier's standouts include a delicious nopalitos burrito stuffed with tangy cactus strips, scrambled eggs, and potatoes, and the Oregon burrito, which is their variation on the widely popular "steak and eggs" burrito. LANCE CHESS

The Old Nob Hill Pharmacy Café

2100 NW Glisan, 548-4049

Perhaps the healthiest of the available all-night options in Portland, the spacious Nob Hill Pharmacy Café has a nice array of not-too-greasy deli sandwiches that can be made with house-baked bagels or normal bread. There're also salads, espresso, pastries like quiche and cake, and even deviled eggs. The place is quite proud of the fact that it serves everything on the menu at all hours of the day or night. I tried the salami-and-egg bagel sandwich, which was decent despite the fact the egg was cooked in a microwave. And compared to what I typically stick in my mouth when drunk at three in the morning, it was downright spectacular. JUSTIN W. SANDERS

Fireside Coffee Lodge

1223 SE Powell, 230-8987

Featuring enough log rounds and un-ironic elk- and wolf-themed amenities to incite seething jealousy from Doug Fir's interior designer, the Fireside Coffee Lodge also offers things your granpappy's log cabin surely doesn't—like wired and wireless internet access. Fireside also has a nicely equitable all-night breakfast menu where, by the grace of god, you can get three scrambled eggs and three strips of bacon for $2.60. Their menu includes a huge selection of coffee drinks, café classics including all manner of cold deli sandwiches, several enticing hot sandwiches like their meatball sub, and a ton of delicious baked goods. There's also a David Lynch aesthetic in effect, so don't be surprised if you see a backward-talking dwarf walk in and order a double tall latte at 3 am. LC

Holman's

15 SE 28th, 231-1093

Sure, Holman's is smoky and greasy, but that comes with the 24-hour territory. Try a powdered-sugar-dusted Monte Cristo, or a Reuben piled high with corned beef if you're a meathead, or a veggie Reuben or veggie omelet if you're not. Also recommended is the chiliburger, which is a ton of sloppy food and tastes best if you're tripping on mushrooms—not that I would know anything about that. Holman's is only open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays, so remember to save your all-night booze, food, and cigarette benders for the weekends. KATIE SHIMER

Jubitz Cascade Grill

10310 N Vancouver, 283-1111

Located near the slough in North Portland, The Cascade Grill has a better menu than Shari's or Denny's while maintaining the large-portioned comfort food you so crave during the wee hours. They also have a better than average Sunday brunch and seating for 250 people. Good to know when competing for the hot Portland breakfast joint on those days when you don't feel like standing around outside for 45 minutes. Refreshingly un-clichéd as far as truck-stop dining goes, Jubitz's is uncharacteristically clean to boot, the staff courteous and the food better than you'd expect. LC

Shari's

7451 SW Garden Home; 6035 SW Murray, Beaverton

Shari's is the best thing the 'burbs have going for 'em after the bars close, so if you're rocking it in Beaverton and don't want the party to end, drop on by. Grab a blue cheese bacon burger, a hunk of prime rib, or a cobb salad teeming with eggs, bacon, chicken, and the rest. If you've got a sweet tooth, the "Cinnama-sation" French toast is quite tasty, especially paired with a bucket of syrup. Even though Shari's may not have the best food in the world, at least it's always open. And they'll fill up your coffee cup at least 612 times in the brief time you're there. And! Free hot chocolate refills! KS

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